Unforgettable Scenery and Wine Delights in Vienna’s Suburbs This Autumn
During my stay in Vienna, I was also able to meet up with an old friend. We started by catching up on our lives while having lunch at a cafe near Naschmarkt. After chatting for a bit, we started talking about where to go after lunch. Since the weather was nice, we decided to go up into the mountains first, enjoy the view, then go down the mountain and return to the city centre, and have dinner at a Heuriger.
We visited Am Himmel, then Kahlenberg, and finally Grinzing in that order. It was a great itinerary for touring the outskirts of Vienna on an autumn day, so I recommend you include it in your sightseeing.
Contents
Access
Find your own tree at Am Himmel
The charming Sisi Chapel nestled in the forest
Enjoy a panoramic view of Vienna from Kahlenberg
Savor the autumn delicacy, Sturm
Recommended Austrian wines at Heuriger
Access
Thanks to a friend, I was able to get there by car, but it’s also easy to get there by public transport. It’s easier to plan your trip from Heiligenstadt station, the northern end (terminus) of subway line 4. If you take bus 38A from there, you can easily get to the places we visited that day.
To Am Himmel
Take bus 38A and get off at the Cobenzl Parkplatz stop, then walk for 10 minutes. Climb the mountain.
To Kahlenberg
Take bus 38A and it’s about 30 minutes from Heiligenstadt. Get off at Kahlenberg.
If you’re coming from Am Himmel, return to the Cobenzl Parkplatz stop and take the bus in the same direction as you came for about 15 minutes.
To Grinzing
Take bus 38A from Heiligenstadt for about 10 minutes.
Alternatively, you can take tram 38 from Schottentor station on subway line 2 to Grinzing. After about 25 minutes, get off at Grinzing station, the last stop.
Find your own tree at Am Himmel
The first place we went to was Am Himmel, located on the northern outskirts of Vienna. It is part of the Vienna Woods, which stretches from the Vienna suburbs to the eastern part of Lower Austria.
After climbing the slope for a while, the entrance to Am Himmel came into view. After walking a little further inside, we came to a square overlooking the city of Vienna. There was a stepped seating area at the back of the square, resembling an ancient Greek amphitheater.
Thirty-six “Trees of Life” were planted in a circle around four trees that symbolize the four seasons. They are called the Ring of Life (German: Lebenbaumkreis), and you can find the tree that is assigned to you according to your birthday. It’s like a constellation. My friend explained that it may be based on the Celtic belief in trees.
I immediately tried to find my tree. It was a “pine tree.” The characteristics of pine people are “flexible, visionary, have excellent organizational skills, ambitious, honest, courageous, open-minded, and problem-solving.” I wonder, is that right?
It was written on an information board at the entrance that this site is owned by an environmental protection organisation. This has created a space for them to become familiar with the forest and deepen their understanding of the natural environment. It’s a wonderful initiative.
The charming Sisi Chapel nestled in the forest
Leaving the Trees of Life behind, we walked through the forest for a few minutes and next visited the Sisi Chapel (German: Sisi Kapelle).
It was built in 1854 to commemorate the marriage of Empress Elisabeth (nicknamed Sisi) and Emperor Franz Joseph. It had been abandoned for many years, but in recent years it has been renovated and is now open to the public.
It is an ideal place for those who want to have a peaceful and warm ceremony with their loved ones while feeling the sunlight filtering through the trees and the gentle breeze in nature.
It is also a must-visit place for Sisi fans who want to follow in her footsteps.
If you are tired from walking and want to take a break around here, how about Häuserl am Himmel? I forgot to take a photo, but the homemade cake I had here was delicious and highly recommended.
Enjoy a panoramic view of Vienna from Kahlenberg
Leaving Am Himmel behind, we next headed to Kahlenberg. At 484 meters above sea level, it is a small hill compared to the Alps towering in the southwest of the country, but the view of Vienna from here was spectacular.
The city walls surrounding Vienna were demolished during the reign of Franz Joseph I. It took more than 50 years to complete the construction of the Ringstrasse, but you can see that Vienna has expanded and developed considerably compared to the city limits when the walls were there.
Our eyes were drawn to the endless cityscape, but when looking closer, we noticed vineyards. The Heuriger in Grinzing, where we said we would go for dinner later, is located just down the road from these vineyards.
Savour the autumn delicacy, Sturm
This may be a sudden question, but which do you prefer, beer or wine? Whether you prefer beer or wine, Austria has the versatility to enjoy both.
The country is the second highest in the world for beer consumption per capita. There are many breweries and a wide variety of beers, so if you have the opportunity, you’ll want to try a few. That said, if you visit Vienna in the fall, you can’t leave without trying some Austrian wine.
Sturm, which is only available at this time of year, is a drink that even beer lovers should try at least once. Even in German-speaking countries, it is called different names depending on the region, such as Federweißer and Neuer Wein, but Sturm is a wine that is in the middle of fermentation and can only be enjoyed at this time of year.
I happened to find Sturm available at a shop in Kahlenberg, so I bought some right away. I’ve only ever had white wine Sturm before, but here they also have red wine Sturm, which is an addictive taste. The sales-savvy man managed to persuade me to order an additional serving of liverkäse (German: Leberkäse). It’s the perfect snack. I learned that most of the Sturm on the market are made from beef or pork, but here they traditionally use horse meat.
Recommended Austrian wines at Heuriger
There are several Heurigen in Vienna, but Grinzing is the most famous and popular because it is easy to get to from the centre of Vienna. We didn’t make a reservation and just went to a place with a nice atmosphere.
Müllers Heuriger & Weingut
Cobenzlgasse 38, 1190 Vienna
Austrian wine is not well known because it is mostly consumed domestically and is not sold abroad, but I was told about some recommendations.
– Gelber Muskateller
– Grüner Veltliner
Others
– Rielsling
– Weißburgunder
I think they can be found outside of Austria, but they are also delicious. Why not try a few during your stay and find your favourite wine? You can also buy them at supermarkets, so they make great souvenirs.
At the Heurigen, we were able to enjoy a leisurely meal in the atmospheric courtyard, which became a very fond memory.
It may feel a bit too atmospheric and dim. It was difficult to read the menu, so if you want to enjoy it in a brighter environment, it may be better to visit early and finish your meal before it gets dark.
Useful information
If you like Austrian wine, please stop by the supermarket during your stay. They have the recommended wines listed above, so they make great souvenirs. However, they are heavy and difficult to carry, and you can’t really experience the atmosphere when you buy them, so it’s best to enjoy them while you’re there.
Since sturm is still in the middle of fermentation, the lid is not tightly closed. Please enjoy them while staying in Austria as it is difficult to travel back home with it.
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