Greek friends’ favourite beach at Ionian Sea
In this article, I share a detailed, first-hand account of my visit to the Ionian Sea coast in Greece—the first in 17 years—including how to get there from London and Athens, where to stay, and the highlights of the surrounding area.
This travel journal is especially for those who want to avoid the crowds and enjoy Greece at a relaxed, unhurried pace.
| Contents First Greek trip after 17 years Spending time by the Greek seaside Access to Ionian Sea Accommodation Places to visit Useful information |
You may also enjoy my other travel stories from Greece.
First Greek trip after 17 years
I went to Greece for the first time when the currency was still the drachma. I was a student and travelled around Europe, and Greece was the final destination.
I visited Greece 17 years later, and my impression of Greece has not changed at all. In the meantime, the Olympics were held in Athens, and the subway that was under construction at the time was opened, but the restoration work on the Parthenon is still progressing as usual.
And one more thing that has not changed is the warm welcome it gives to travellers. I decided to go to Greece for the first time in 17 years because I was invited by a Greek friend I made in London.
My friend came to pick me up at the Athens airport, we got in the car and headed for the southwest of the Peloponnese Peninsula. I was thrilled to see the names of places I had heard about in world history classes and that appeared in ‘The Odyssey’ on the road signs.
Further west of Kalamata, famous for its olives, there is a small village in the mountains where my friend’s family owns a villa, so I decided to stay there for a few nights.
Spending time by the Greek seaside
The next day, we headed to a nearby beach. Not only did we see the long white sand beach, the sparkling blue sea, and plants such as olives and cacti, but we also heard the sounds of the waves and the cicadas, which are very different from those of Northern Europe.
On the first day, I didn’t really know how to spend my time at the beach in the Greek way, so at first I just learned by watching, but the main thing was to relax freely. The facilities for this were well-equipped, and the sun loungers and parasols were owned by the beach bars or hotels, so I found the person in charge and took a seat. When I found a place I liked, I moved the sun lounger to match the angle of the sun to secure shade, and servers are on hand to order drinks or food.
Whenever I felt hot, I went into the sea, but I spent far more time on the beach than in the sea, and when I looked around, it seemed that most people were reading books or just lying down and sunbathing.
The Ionian Sea is an inland sea and there are almost no waves; some people go into the sea to float or swim, others play sports on the beach like beach tennis, and some walk along the shore – most people spend the day like this.
Then, as we start to get hungry in the evening, we go to an eatery on the beach. At this time, a friend of a friend joined us, making a total of six people. With a large group, we can share a variety dishes, and we can also have a larger fish grilled and share it all together. The fish we chose was a sea bream-like fish with the head and tail still attached. It was a big fish that is hard to find in England.
I thought we would return to the villa after the meal, but we drove to a nearby hill overlooking the sea. The sky, which had been so blue and clear, had taken on a unique dusk hue at this time. The way the colour changed from crimson to vermilion, and then to madder red just before sunset was indescribably beautiful. No matter how many times I see the sunset in Greece, I always lose track of time and get engrossed in it.
The beautiful seaside scenery, the strong sunlight, and the local cuisine made with fresh ingredients; what I experienced in Greece after a long break was so vivid that, from that year on, I decided to go to Greece almost every summer vacation.
Access to Ionian Sea
From London and other European cities
The easiest way is to take a direct flight to Kalamata Airport. In addition to British Airways, low-cost carriers such as easyJet also operate flights, but like many routes to Greece, these are seasonal services—so be sure to check the operating period in advance. Most flights seem to run only from April to October.
Direct flights are available not only from London but also from various cities across Europe, so it’s worth searching for departures from the airport closest to you. From Kalamata Airport, renting a car is highly recommended for reaching your final destination.
From Athens
There are also domestic flights from Athens International Airport to Kalamata Airport. Try searching with Aegean Airlines or Olympic Air.
Traveling by long-distance bus is another option. Operated by KTEL Messinias, the route runs between the Kalamata city bus terminal and Athens’ main bus terminal (Kifisou). The journey takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes and costs €24.30 (as of 2025).
Be aware that if you do not choose an express service, the trip may take longer due to intermediate stops and rest breaks along the way.
Accommodation
Two years later, when we returned to Messenia, we found a good accommodation, Aelia Home Suites.
The coast is about 50 km from Kalamata Airport. You can arrive in an hour by renting a car at the airport.
You will find it after turning off the main road, Vasileos Goergiu V, and driving through the olive groves until the entrance to the accommodation comes into view. If you let the accommodation staff know your approximate arrival time, you can check in smoothly.
The gardens on the premises were wonderful, and in addition to olive trees, there were plenty of plants that gave off a Mediterranean feel, such as bougainvillea and lavender. There was plenty of outdoor space, and having breakfast at the shared table was a daily pleasure. Even though the sea was close by, there was a pool if you were worried about the tide or just wanted to take a quick dip.
The nearest town, Marathopoli (Μαραθόπολη), was about a 10-minute drive away, and there were restaurants, shops, and small souvenir shops.
Check out Aelia Home Sweet on booking sites>>
>>If you like what you see, why not go ahead and book your stay?
As I wrote below, you might also want to consider the Costa Navarino, a resort hotel for long-term stays.
Places to visit
The beach where I spent the most time was about a five-minute drive from my accommodation. The landmark is the Marriott hotel Costa Navarno, located right in the middle of the long beach.
In front of the hotel are sun loungers and parasols for hotel guests only, but the rest seem to be run by several beach bars and restaurants along the coast.
There are many other swimming beaches of various sizes, so I recommend asking at your accommodation.
If you have time, it’s worth to make a trip to the town of Pylos, which is about a 30-minute drive away. It is a historic town that also appears in the ancient Greek epic poem “The Odyssey.”
Useful Information
In summer, the best places to visit Greece are the Aegean islands, but you have to take a ferry or a plane, and ferries can be shaky or delayed due to rough weather, and there are only a limited number of islands with direct flights, and they are usually crowded due to the popularity of the islands.
This time I visited the west side of the Peloponnese Peninsula, facing the Ionian Sea in Messinia, and the natural beauty and delicious food were just as wonderful as on the islands. Since public transportation is not well developed, I recommend renting a car from the airport, even though you will be driving on the right.
From Athens Airport, where most travellers arrive in Greece, the distance is over 300 km and it takes about 4 hours. Driving for 4 hours after a long-distance flight may be quite difficult due to jet lag.
I recommend flights to and from Kalamata Airport. Although it is a small airport, it is connected to various parts of Europe, including London by British Airways during the busy season.
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