Gujo Hachiman: exploring Japan’s historic water town
After enjoying the traditional cormorant fishing on the Nagara River in Gifu City (Following the Nagara River – Part 1), I finally fulfilled a long-held wish to travel on the scenic Nagaragawa Railway (Part 2). From Hokunō Station, I continued to the mountain village of Itoshiro, where I spent the night and visited Hakusan Nakai Shrine. The following day, I also visited Nagataki Hakusan Shrine, continuing my journey through the sacred landscape of Hakusan worship before arriving at the final destination of this series (Part3): the historic castle town of Gujo Hachiman.
Following the Nagara River Part 1 – 4
Journey to Gujo Hachiman on the Nagaragawa Railway ‘Nagara’
Before returning to Hokunō Station, I stopped at Michi-no-Eki Hakusan Bunka no Sato Nagataki, a roadside service area next to the Hakusan Culture Museum. It sells a wide range of local specialities from the Oku-Mino region, while the farmers’ market offers fresh mountain produce. There is also a restaurant, making it a pleasant place to stop for lunch if you have time. Set beside the Nagara River, it also enjoys beautiful views.
I bought some lunch to enjoy on board the sightseeing train Nagara, along with a few local delicacies as souvenirs.
After walking back to Hokunō Station, I boarded the Nagara. I had already reserved my seat by phone, while the boarding supplement (¥510) was purchased on board. To my surprise, the guide on today’s journey was the same person who had accompanied passengers as far as Gujo Hachiman the previous day.
My travelling companion for the journey was a can of Hida apple chūhai, which I had picked up at the roadside service area.
The Nagaragawa Railway still uses wooden sleepers, and the gentle rocking of the train brought back memories of journeys I took as a child. The rhythmic clatter of the wheels somehow makes it even easier to relax and admire the scenery unfolding outside the window.
Before long, I arrived at Gujo Hachiman Station. This marked the end of my journey aboard the sightseeing train Nagara. Before leaving the station, I watched as the View Plan carriage from Hokunō was coupled to the Sweets Plancarriage, then set off to explore the historic town of Gujo Hachiman.
Gujo Hachiman Station – The Gateway to a Historic Water Town
Before heading into town, I left my luggage in one of the station’s coin lockers. The station is also home to a stylish café with a tourist information centre. Housed in the beautifully restored station building, which is registered as a Tangible Cultural Property, it is a lovely place to relax before or after your journey.
I imagine many visitors choose to travel on the Nagaragawa Railway just for the chance to visit this station. While it is naturally convenient for those arriving by train, there is also a car park with 48 spaces—a reminder that this is rural Japan. Even if you are travelling by car, the café alone is well worth the stop.
From Gujo Hachiman Station, I decided to walk into the town centre. It is a little farther than it looks, and despite it being late May, the weather was already remarkably hot. If you prefer not to walk, both the community-operated Mame Bus and local bus services run between the station and the town centre. Details are available on the station café’s web page.
If you would rather explore on two wheels, bicycle rental is also available at the station. For the latest information, please check the official Nagaragawa Railway website.
Exploring the Castle Town of Gujo Hachiman
Just as I was beginning to feel the walk, I came across a small dango shop and decided it was the perfect place to take a break. The café occupies a traditional townhouse that is over 100 years old. Inside is a charming tsuboniwa (courtyard garden), laid out in the classic style of a Japanese machiya. Sitting beside the courtyard with freshly grilled rice dumplings made from locally grown Gujo rice was a wonderful way to relax.
From there, I continued along Shinmachi Street, lined with souvenir shops and traditional buildings, before crossing Miyagase Bridge over the Yoshida River, a tributary of the Nagara River. Just beyond the bridge is the famous Sōgisui Spring, one of Gujo Hachiman’s best-known landmarks. I also noticed a new teahouse that hadn’t been there the last time I visited. Having just enjoyed my dango, I decided to save it for another visit, but it looked like an inviting place to stop.
The views of the river from the Nagaragawa Railway are spectacular, but seeing the clear water flowing beneath the bridges in the heart of Gujo Hachiman is equally memorable.
Beside Miyagase Bridge, there is easy access to the riverbank, so I couldn’t resist taking off my shoes and dipping my feet into the crystal-clear water. Although it was only late May, the weather already felt like midsummer, and a few local children were happily swimming in the river.
Another castle town I visited during this trip to Japan was Takahashi in Okayama Prefecture. Castle towns each have their own distinctive character. I found Takahashi retained a strong samurai atmosphere, whereas Gujo Hachiman felt defined by its rivers, canals and scattered temples, creating an atmosphere of tranquillity and purity. Later, I discovered that temples belonging to several different Buddhist sects coexist throughout the town.
As I wandered through the narrow streets, I occasionally caught glimpses of Gujo Hachiman Castle framed between the buildings. The original castle was dismantled after the Meiji Restoration, while the present wooden keep was reconstructed in 1933.
Because I had travelled down from Itoshiro via Hokunō Station on the Nagaragawa Railway, I didn’t have enough time to explore every corner of the town. Even so, simply strolling through the historic streets was a pleasure. Many buildings dating from the Edo, Meiji and Taishō periods have survived. One example is the former tax office, originally built during the Taishō era and restored in 1991. Today, it houses the Gujo Hachiman Museum.
I also enjoyed spotting the old shop signs that have been preserved throughout the town. Small details like these add so much character and make wandering around all the more enjoyable.
One of Gujo Hachiman’s greatest charms is the abundance of waterways and public water features woven into the streets. Even on a hot day, they bring a welcome sense of coolness wherever you walk.
After exploring the town, I made my way back to Gujo Hachiman Station. Before leaving, don’t miss a photo with GJ8 Man, the local hero character created by Momoko Sakura, who loved Gujo Hachiman so much that she even invented a superhero inspired by the town.
Useful Information: Seiryu Nagaragawa Ayu Park
Although it is part of a roadside service area, it is also conveniently located directly opposite Nagataki Station on the Nagaragawa Railway, making it easy to visit even if you are travelling by train.
I didn’t have enough time to stop on this trip, but the nearby Seiryu Nagaragawa Ayu Park looks well worth a visit. In addition to exhibits introducing the Nagara River and its famous ayu (sweetfish), the park offers a variety of hands-on activities, including fishing experiences, craft workshops and food-related programmes, making it an enjoyable stop for both children and adults.
If you have a little extra time in the area, it would make an excellent addition to your itinerary.
Final Thoughts: Gujo Hachiman – A Historic Water Town Best Reached by the Nagaragawa Railway
My journey along the Nagara River began with the 1,300-year-old tradition of Nagaragawa Cormorant Fishing. From there, I travelled north aboard the sightseeing train Nagara, followed the footsteps of the Hakusan faith in the mountain village of Itoshiro, and finally arrived in the historic water town of Gujo Hachiman.
Although each destination lies within the same river basin, every town has its own distinct history, culture and landscape. Travelling through the region made me realise how a single river has shaped local communities, supported livelihoods and industries, and connected places through centuries of shared history and faith.
The Nagaragawa Railway was more than just a means of transport—it became one of the highlights of the journey itself. Watching the clear waters of the Nagara River from the train window was every bit as memorable as the destinations along the way. Rather than rushing from one place to the next, I would highly recommend taking your time, stopping off along the route and discovering the unique character of each town.
There are still many fascinating places along the Nagara River that I have yet to visit. I hope to return one day to experience the changing scenery of the river through the seasons.
Beyond Gujo Hachiman and Itoshiro, the Nagaragawa Railway also serves a number of attractive towns, including Minoand Seki. Based on this journey, I have put together a separate guide introducing the highlights of the railway line, along with suggested itineraries to help you plan your own trip. If you’re thinking of visiting the region, I hope you’ll find it useful.
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