Itoshiro and the sacred shrines of Mount Hakusan
After arriving at Hokunō Station, the northern terminus of the Nagaragawa Railway, we continued by car to the mountain village of Itoshiro.
Although Itoshiro lies outside the Nagara River basin, it prospered as the gateway to the Mino Zendō, the historic pilgrimage route to Mount Hakusan. From here, our journey shifted from following the river to exploring the spiritual heritage of Mount Hakusan.
Our first stop was Hakusan Nakai Shrine, set among peaceful rural landscapes. The following day, we visited Nagataki Hakusan Shrine. Exploring these two historic shrines revealed how deeply the culture and history of this region are connected to Mount Hakusan, one of Japan’s three sacred mountains.
Journey Along the Nagara River, Parts 1 & 2
To Itoshiro – A Beautiful Mountain Village at the Headwaters of the Nagara River
After a scenic two-hour journey on the Nagaragawa Railway from Mino-Ōta to Hokunō Station, we continued into the mountains to the peaceful village of Itoshiro, where we stayed for the night.
Surrounded by rice paddies and mountains, Itoshiro is a beautiful example of rural Japan. During the rice-planting season, the flooded fields reflect the surrounding peaks like mirrors. Walking through the village, I was reminded of the countryside my parents used to take me to as a child. Clear mountain water flows throughout the village, giving Itoshiro its distinctive character.
Hakusan Chūkyo Shrine – A Sacred Site of the Hakusan Faith
The main reason for visiting Itoshiro was Hakusan Chūkyo Shrine, a sacred site at the heart of the Hakusan faith.
Passing beneath the torii gate and into the cedar forest, I immediately sensed the tranquillity of the shrine, where the scent of cedar filled the air.
Behind the shrine stands the Jōan Cedar, an ancient tree that has watched over this sacred place for centuries.
A short walk further leads to Nagahashiri Falls, where crystal-clear water flows through the forest—a reminder of why water has long been revered in this region.
Returning to the village, I was struck by how closely everything is connected: forests, water, rice fields and the people who have cared for this landscape for generations.
Places like Itoshiro remind us that protecting rural landscapes also means protecting nature, agriculture and a way of life.
Staying in Itoshiro – A Mountain Lodge with a Welcoming Atmosphere
For our stay in Itoshiro, we chose Calvilla Itoshiro, a cosy mountain lodge popular with hikers in summer and skiers in winter.
Our tatami room overlooked the surrounding mountains, while shared meals in the communal dining hall created a warm, friendly atmosphere. Before dinner, I enjoyed a bottle of sake I had bought on the Nagaragawa Railway.
One of the highlights of the stay was chatting with fellow guests, many of them exploring the Hakusan region. It felt less like a hotel and more like a traditional mountain hut, where conversations begin naturally among travellers.
Nagataki Hakusan Shrine – Where Shinto and Buddhism Still Coexist
The following morning, we visited Nagataki Hakusan Shrine before returning to Hokunō Station.
What makes this shrine unique is that it still preserves the historic coexistence of Shinto and Buddhism. While most shrines and temples were separated during the Meiji era, the shrine and the adjacent Hakusan Chōryū-ji Temple remain side by side, offering a rare glimpse into Japan’s religious past.
Don’t miss the Hakusan Takihōden, a small treasure hall displaying nationally designated Important Cultural Properties. I never expected to find such magnificent Buddhist sculptures in a quiet mountain village, and they became one of the highlights of the trip. Photography is not permitted inside.
Like Hakusan Chūkyo Shrine, the grounds are surrounded by towering cedar trees, creating a peaceful atmosphere that seems to define the sacred sites of the Hakusan region.
Discovering the Hakusan Faith at the Hakusan Culture Museum
After visiting Nagataki Hakusan Shrine, we crossed the railway tracks to the Hakusan Culture Museum, located just opposite the shrine. If you plan to visit both the museum and the shrine’s treasure hall, be sure to buy the combined admission ticket.
The museum is larger than it first appears and offers an excellent introduction to the Hakusan region, covering its history, nature, traditional life and religious culture. Among the exhibits, I was particularly moved by a petition signed by farmers during a peasant uprising, a powerful reminder of the hardships endured by ordinary people in Japan’s past.
The museum also explains the Hakusan faith, centred on a group of sacred peaks spanning the former provinces of Kaga, Echizen and Mino. Looking back, I realised that this journey had been connected to Hakusan from the very beginning. The headwaters of the Nagara River rise on Mount Dainichi, part of the southern Hakusan range. Perhaps this journey had been leading me towards Hakusan all along.
From the museum, it was just a short walk back to Hokunō Station. Boarding the Nagaragawa Railway once again, I set off for the final destination of this journey: Gujo Hachiman.
Conclusion – Itoshiro – Where Rural Japan and the Hakusan Faith Live On
I discovered Itoshiro almost by accident while looking for somewhere to visit after reaching Hokunō, the northern terminus of the Nagaragawa Railway. It soon became one of the most memorable places on the journey.
One night was not enough. Beyond its historic shrines, Itoshiro is a place to slow down and appreciate the quiet beauty of rural Japan.
The village is also looking to the future through community-led small hydropower projects and other local initiatives. Rather than preserving the past as a museum piece, Itoshiro shows how history, nature and modern rural life can thrive together.
If you are planning to visit, I highly recommend travelling on the Nagaragawa Railway. The journey itself is part of the experience, linking the Nagara River with the sacred landscape of Hakusan. From Hokunō Station, demand-responsive buses provide easy access to Itoshiro.
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